Bubion is a quiet little village in the Poqueira gorge. Located at 71 kms from Granada (44 miles) With just 302 inhabitants, Bubion is located South of Granada in the Alpujarra region. I recently spent a few days there seeing village life in this part of the world.
Although the most typical villlages of Capileira and Pampaneira are a stone´s throw away, Bubion is much smaller and retains its authentic charm. Most of the village is part of the Sierra Nevada National Park.
History of Bubion
This site has been inhabited even before roman times. Yet the first organized colony was around the year 383 and was initially dedicated to mining. Sat 13,00 metres above sea level, the views from the village are remarkable.
The name Bubion comes from the word bullir to boil… probably from the babbling sound mountain water. There are some many fountains and natural springs all around this village.
In medieval times the Alpujarra was known for its silk production. Bubion was no exception. This golden age lasted until 1609 when the Moors had to leave the region under the rule of the Catholic Kings. However you can still spot mulberry trees dotted around the area today
Later in 19th century Bubion and other villages in the region were inhabited by new settlers from Galicia, León, Asturias and Castilla.
Things to Do
With typical Berber architecture the village clings onto the mountainside. Wandering around Bubion spotting quaint corners and enjoying the landscapes of the nearby villages is a particular highlight.
Dotted with little nooks covered in plantpots and babbling fountains.
There is also a public laundry which was built in 1945. Used to wash before each house had a washing machine, some neighbours still use these ocassionally today.
The stone sign on the wall reads
Built in 1945
Prohibited to leave the basins dirty – Fine of 25 pesetas will be applied
The village has 16 fountains of water coming direct from the Sierra Nevada. This one located right at the bottom of the village is called Fuente Hondero.
Festivals in Bubion
Although Bubion only has 300 inhabitants officially registered it still has its fair share of festivals and celebrations throughout the year.
Here are the main events each year celebrated in Bubion.
- Evening of 5th January – Three Kings Parade
- Mid January – Festivities San Sebastián and San Antón + Chisco de San Antón
- 23rd February – Carnaval de Bubión
- Easter Processions
- 13th June – Romeria San Antonio de Padua (Church service & procession)
- 20th June – Corpus Christi en Bubión
- Last week in August – Summer Fiestas
- First weekend in November – Autumn Festival of the Mauraca (Roast Chesnuts + bonfires)
Visit the Museum
In Bubion the Alpujarra House Museum is a typical home just off the main square. (Plaza de la Iglesia)
Inside there are pieces of furniture from the turn of the century, agricultural implements in the barn and antique ceramcs. This home was lived in until just a few years ago when the town hall opened it up with all the contents so visitors can see a day in the life of the local alpujarra family.
Built in the 16th century and modified over the centuries visiting gives a unique insight into village life centuries ago.
The ground floor was used for stables, granary and shed. The wine barrels and tools were kept here too. On the first floor the kitchen and dining room, and living quarters.
Museo Casa Alpujarreña
- Closed on Tuesdays
- Open Daily from 11am to 2pm
- Friday, Saturdays and Bank Holidays also open in the afternoon from 5pm to 7pm
Hiking & Biking
As the area is surrounded by nature this location is ideal for Hikers and Biking enthusiasts. On the main road Alpujarra Bikes can set you up with a bike and plenty of information on the area.
Walking routes are varied and good for all levels. Best resource is Wikiloc there are routes from 2.5 miles up to longer 12 mile walks.
One of the best walks is from Bubion up to Capileira as the gradient is gentle.
You can also get detailed Mountain information from the Park service in Capileria at the hut at the entrance of the village.
Local Alpujarra Crafts
As soon as you arrive to the Alpujarra you will notice the eyecatching jarapas sold in many shops. These are often made somewhere else and bought in (Morocco or other factories around Spain)
However if you want to get the real thing, hand made artisan jarapas you need to visit Ana´s shop and workshop in Bubion. Jarapas Hilacar
Here you can find the typical Alpujarra striped curtains for your back door. Good to keep the heat and dust out but let some air in.
There are also jarapas in all shapes and sizes all made by Ana herself on the loom seen above.
Where to Stay
On this trip to the Alpujarra I stayed in Bubion for 3 nights at this beautiful house at the bottom of the village.
The main walking path connecting the three Poqueira villages was literally on the doorstep.
The house built in typical Alpujarra style, with slate and the typical flat roofs and adorable chimney stacks.
This was booked with Rustical Travel who curate stunning properties around Spain. Love this as you really feel like a local when you travel. This house was a true home. With books, candles and a well equipped kitchen, perfect for a 4 days rural break.
The wifi was excellent too. Something I truly didnt expect in such a remote location.
Bubion Where to Eat
In Bubion there are a few tapas bars and cafés on the main road. They also have a small but well stocked supermarket called Coviran too.
This was ideal for our 4 day stay. On Mondays a lot of places close, so it´s wirth booking or phoning ahead if tyou want to eat out on Monday lunchtime.
Lo Nuestro is a cute little place on the main road worth trying for tapas and cold drink.
Situated on the main road, Calle Carretera Bubion. This restaurante was built in 1936 and has been run by the same family since then. With a delightful garden patio I enjoyed a typical Alpujarra dish of poor potatoes, eggs and black pudding.
This is a large restaurante with two patios outside and a large dining hall inside too.
They also have a car park at the back too.
Corral del Castaño
In the next village up Capileira I choose a restaurant off the main square. Corral del Castaño.
With outdoor and indoor seating this place is really popular and got really busy. In fact I was lucky to grab one of the last tables.
If you plan to go book ahead.
Food was delicious and they had a selection of pizzas, salds, fish and meat dishes. The portions sizes were enornmous.
It is best to choose one dish to share between two people. We physcially couldnt finish all the food we ordered.despite it being so tasty.
Staying in Bubion
As Bubion is a village on a hillside not all streets can be accessed . By car, you may have to park up a short walk away from your accomodation.
Some streets are stepped or are quite steep. So I would recommend wearing good comfortable shoes when you visit.
As with any rural setting it just add to the chamr.
One of the highlights of our stay was seeing Jupiter and four moons from our rooftop terrace. (with regular binoculars)
As light pollution in this area is so little it was of the small details that may this break so memorable.